New Orleans Good Times

New Orleans has an atmosphere quite different to any other American city: louche, laidback, wild, wanton, eccentric, eerie. It was the birthplace of jazz and home to many of the originators of rhythm & blues; its food, a mix of Cajun, Creole and European influences, is acclaimed and copied worldwide. Even residents recognise the standard of cooking here is extraordinary and the number of establishments to enjoy it overwhelming. It's just not like other places: fierce debates rage over who serves better red beans and rice or gumbo and the decision of where to eat can be seen as a mark of character.